Preserved lemons: how to make and use them

Preserved lemons are whole lemons cured in salt and their own juice until the peel softens and turns mellow and savory. A jar takes about a month to become usable, and cooks typically use only the rind. Once cured, the lemons keep for months as long as they stay submerged in their brine, so one short session of work supplies many meals.

Preserved lemons are most associated with North African cooking, but they suit any dish that needs a bright, salty, concentrated citrus note. The method is simple. The real decisions are which lemons to buy, how much salt to use and how long to wait.

Choosing the lemons and the salt

Look for lemons with thin, unwaxed skins, since the rind is the part you eat. If the lemons are waxed, scrub them under warm running water with a brush, then dry them well before cutting. Meyer lemons give a sweeter, more floral result, while standard lemons give a sharper, more classic flavor. Smaller lemons fit neatly into a jar, which makes them easier to pack.

Use coarse salt, such as kosher or sea salt. Fine iodized table salt packs more densely, so measuring it by the spoon is less reliable, and it can leave a harsh taste. Plan on about one tablespoon of coarse salt for each lemon, plus extra to dust the bottom and top of the jar. Choose a clean glass jar with a tight lid, large enough to hold the lemons with room to press them down.

Many cooks add a few whole spices along with the salt, such as a bay leaf, a small cinnamon stick, a few black peppercorns or a pinch of coriander seeds. These are optional. They add a warm note in the background without taking over the lemon, so use only one or two, and remove any loose pieces before you cook with the lemons later.

Packing the jar and curing it

Cut each lemon into quarters from the top toward the base, but stop short of the bottom so the quarters stay joined. Open each lemon slightly, pack salt inside, and press it back into shape. Put a layer of salt in the bottom of the jar, then add the lemons one at a time, pressing each one down and sprinkling salt over it. When the jar is full, press the lemons down firmly and squeeze in fresh lemon juice until they are fully covered.

Seal the jar and leave it at room temperature for about a month. During the first week, shake or turn the jar once a day so the salt dissolves and spreads. Lemons that float can be held under with a clean weight, or you can add a little more juice. Some cooks cure them for six to eight weeks for a softer, more mellow result. Start tasting a piece of rind after about three weeks, then decide when the flavor suits you.

Over the curing period, the salt draws juice out of the lemon flesh, and the liquid turns cloudy and salty. The pith softens, and the sharp bitterness of the peel mellows into a savory, floral flavor. To check progress, press a piece of rind between your fingers. When it is ready, it should feel tender rather than firm.

Using the rind in cooking

Rinse a preserved lemon quarter under cold water to remove loose salt, then scrape away the pulp and pith with a spoon. The rind is what you use. Slice or chop it finely, since thinner pieces spread their flavor more evenly through a dish. Start with about one quarter's rind, finely chopped, for a pot that serves four, and add more after tasting.

Preserved lemon suits savory dishes that benefit from a salty citrus note. Stir it into chicken or lamb stews with olives and onions, add it to a pot of chickpeas or lentils, or mix finely chopped rind into rice or couscous with fresh herbs. It also works in a vinaigrette with olive oil, cumin and a little honey, and it brightens grilled fish or roasted vegetables. Because the rind is salty, taste the finished dish before adding any more salt.

The liquid left in the jar is salty and lemony, and it can season a vinaigrette or a pot of rice. Use it sparingly, since it carries the full salt level of the jar. Lemon rind also pairs well with garlic, thyme and green olives, so a spoonful of chopped rind with a few olives makes a quick topping for fish or roasted chicken.

Storing and checking the jar

Keep the rind submerged at all times, and use clean, dry utensils each time you take a piece out. Many cooks keep an opened jar in the refrigerator, especially if they use it often, because the cold slows further change. A healthy jar smells bright, salty and lemony. The peel looks softened and pale yellow, with a thin, salty liquid at the bottom.

Discard the jar if you see fuzzy or colored mold, if it smells foul or rotten rather than fresh and citrusy, or if the rind feels slimy. Mold needs air, so it usually shows on rind that has risen above the brine. Its threads can reach into the soft peel beyond the spot you can see, so a single spot is a reason to throw out the whole jar rather than scrape it off. When in doubt, discard it.

Preserved lemons reward patience, and the waiting time is the main limit on the recipe rather than the effort. Start a jar before you need one, and keep it stocked once you know how you like its flavor.