Miso and other fermented bean pastes explained
How miso, doenjang, gochujang, doubanjiang and fermented black beans differ in ingredients, flavor and cooking uses, with notes on salt, labels and adding them to food.
Miso, doenjang, gochujang, doubanjiang and fermented black beans (douchi) all depend on salt and time. Each one is a salted, fermented product based on beans, and several add grain or chili. Miso is Japanese and made with a mold called koji. Doenjang is Korean and made from fermented soybean blocks. Doubanjiang comes from Sichuan and is built on fava beans and chilies. Fermented black beans (douchi) are whole black soybeans, salted and fermented, usually mashed with garlic before cooking.
The quickest way to tell these ingredients apart is to look at three things: what is added beside the beans, how long the paste ferments and what flavor results. Once you know those, the best uses become much easier to predict.
How the pastes are made
Miso combines cooked soybeans, salt and koji, which is a grain such as rice or barley inoculated with the mold Aspergillus oryzae. The mixture ages for months to years. Lighter, white miso ferments for a shorter time and tastes mild and slightly sweet. Darker red miso ages longer, tastes saltier and has a deeper, earthier flavor.
Doenjang starts with soybean blocks called meju. Soybeans are cooked, shaped into blocks, dried and left to ferment with the molds and bacteria that settle on them. The blocks are then placed in a salt brine and aged for months in large jars. The brine is separated from the solids, and the solids are aged into the paste, which is earthy, savory and pungent.
Gochujang combines red chili powder, glutinous rice, fermented soybean powder and salt, often with a sweetener. Its heat comes from the chili, and its sweetness comes from the rice, so the result is thick, sticky and sweet-hot. Doubanjiang is made from fava beans, chilies and salt, often with a little flour, and it ferments for months until it turns a deep reddish brown. Fermented black beans (douchi) are made from whole black soybeans that have been salted and fermented, which gives them a salty, pungent character that is quite different from the smooth pastes.
Comparing flavors and uses
The table gives a starting point for how the pastes differ. Brands and home-style versions vary widely, so the label matters as much as the name.
Scroll sideways to see the full table →
| Paste | Main ingredients | Flavor | Typical uses |
|---|---|---|---|
| White miso | Soybeans, rice koji, salt | Mild and slightly sweet | Dressings, light soups, fish marinades |
| Red miso | Soybeans, barley or rice koji, salt | Deep, salty and earthy | Braises, glazes, hearty soups |
| Doenjang | Soybean blocks, brine | Earthy, savory and pungent | Stews, soup bases, dipping sauces |
| Gochujang | Chili, glutinous rice, soybean, salt | Sweet, hot and thick | Marinades, sauces, rice bowls |
| Doubanjiang | Fava beans, chilies, salt | Spicy, savory and tangy | Mapo tofu, stir-fries, braises |
| Fermented black beans (douchi) | Whole black soybeans, salt | Salty, fermented and pungent | Steamed fish, stir-fries with garlic |
Read the label before you cook. Soy is a common allergen, and some pastes contain wheat or barley, so people who avoid gluten should check each jar. Salt levels vary from one product to the next, so taste before you add any extra salt to a dish.
Cooking with them
Miso loses aroma when it boils, so whisk it into warm broth just before serving and keep the pot below a simmer. In a dressing, it adds body and savory depth when mixed with rice vinegar and sesame oil. For a marinade, combine miso with a little sugar, mirin or sake and a splash of water so it spreads evenly over fish or firm tofu.
A simple glaze for vegetables shows how a paste can work with sugar and acid. Whisk one tablespoon of miso with a teaspoon of sugar, a splash of rice vinegar and a little water, then brush it onto eggplant or sweet potato before roasting. Keep an eye on the surface, since the sugar darkens quickly under high heat.
Doenjang is stronger than miso. Start with a teaspoon per cup of stock in a soup or stew, then add more after tasting. It pairs well with tofu, zucchini, potatoes and onion. Gochujang is thick and sweet, so start with a spoonful in a marinade or sauce, balanced with vinegar, garlic and sesame oil. Heat varies by brand, so taste before adding more.
Doubanjiang is best fried before the other ingredients go in. Warm a little oil over low to medium heat, add the paste and stir until the oil turns red and smells fragrant. Fermented black beans (douchi) benefit from a quick rinse to loosen salt and grit, then a chop or mash with garlic and a pinch of sugar before they go into a stir-fry with fish or pork. Jarred black bean sauce is already seasoned and is used straight from the jar, without rinsing.
Because the pastes differ so much in salt and intensity, one cannot simply replace another in a recipe. If a recipe calls for miso and you have doenjang, start with less than the recipe asks for and taste as you go.
All of these pastes are salty, so add any extra salt at the end, after tasting. Opened pastes keep for months. Many cooks refrigerate them to slow changes in color and flavor, and it is worth following the storage advice printed on the label.