Rice varieties and how each one changes a meal

Rice varieties differ mainly in two traits: grain length and starch. Long grains that carry more of one starch type tend to cook up separate and fluffy, while short, plump grains rich in the other starch turn tender and cling together. Aroma, processing and whether the bran is left on also change how a rice behaves in water. The variety you choose therefore sets the cooking method as well as the kind of meal it suits.

Bags of rice on a shop shelf can look interchangeable, but they are not. A rice meant for risotto is designed to release starch as it is stirred, while a rice meant for pilaf is designed to keep its grains apart. Matching the rice to the dish is one of the simplest ways to improve a meal, and it takes only a little attention at the shelf.

Grain length and starch set the texture

The key to rice texture is starch. Rice contains two starches. Amylose is straight-chained and helps grains stay firm and separate, while amylopectin is branched and makes grains soft and sticky. Long-grain varieties generally contain more amylose, so their cooked grains stay apart. Short-grain varieties contain more amylopectin, so they cook up plump and cling together. Medium-grain rice sits between the two, with a moist, tender texture that holds lightly on the fork.

Two processing methods also change texture. Parboiled rice, sometimes labeled converted, is soaked and steamed before milling, which firms the grains and makes them less sticky and less likely to clump. It suits pilafs and large batches that will be held or reheated. Brown rice keeps its bran layer, which gives it a chewy texture, a nutty flavor and a longer cooking time. Wild rice is not a true rice at all but the seed of an aquatic grass, and it takes considerably longer to cook than either.

Aroma and specialty varieties

Basmati is long, slender and aromatic, with a nutty, popcorn-like smell from a naturally occurring compound. Its grains lengthen and separate as they cook, which suits biryani, pilafs and any dish where the rice should look distinct on the plate. Many cooks rinse and soak basmati before cooking to help the grains elongate and stay apart. Jasmine rice, common in Thai cooking, is also long-grain but softer and slightly moist, with a gentle floral aroma. It pairs well with curries, stir-fries and steamed dishes.

Sushi rice is a short-grain variety with plump, sticky grains, often seasoned after cooking with vinegar, sugar and salt. Glutinous, or sweet, rice is opaque and very sticky. It is usually soaked for several hours and steamed rather than boiled, and it appears in many Southeast Asian steamed dishes and sweets. The name refers to its stickiness, not to gluten, which rice does not contain. Arborio and carnaroli are short, starchy rices used for risotto, and their starch thickens the cooking liquid as they are stirred.

Matching the rice to the meal

A simple test helps: ask whether the grains should separate or cling. If they should separate, reach for a long-grain rice such as basmati for pilafs, biryani or a side that will be spooned beside a curry. If they should cling, choose a short- or medium-grain rice for sushi, onigiri and rice bowls, or jasmine for a soft, lightly clinging texture with Thai food and stir-fries. Sticky rice belongs with dishes eaten by hand, a traditional pattern in parts of Laos and northern Thailand.

Some dishes need a particular rice. Risotto requires a high-starch rice, because a long-grain rice will not thicken the dish in the same way. Parboiled rice suits dishes that must stay loose and unclumped when held. Brown rice works well as a sturdy base for grain bowls and salads, though its firmer texture and nutty flavor change the balance of a meal. When in doubt, a medium-grain white rice is a flexible middle choice for everyday cooking.

Cooking, resting and reheating each type

Start with the package directions, since the water needed varies by rice and by how long the rice has been stored. As a general starting point, long-grain white rice cooks with about one and a half cups of water per cup of rice in a covered pot. Brown rice needs closer to two cups and a longer simmer, often 40 to 50 minutes. Rinse long-grain rice until the water runs mostly clear, which removes surface starch that makes grains gummy. Rinse sushi rice gently and drain it well so it cooks evenly, and soak glutinous rice for several hours before steaming.

After cooking, keep the lid on and let the rice rest off the heat for about ten minutes so the steam settles and the grains finish firming. Fluff with a fork rather than a spoon, since a spoon can crush and compact the grains.

Leftover rice needs care. Cool cooked rice quickly, spread it on a tray if needed, and refrigerate it within an hour of cooking. Rice left at room temperature for long periods can allow Bacillus cereus spores, which survive cooking, to grow and produce toxins, so do not keep cooked rice warm on the counter for hours. Eat refrigerated rice within a few days and reheat it until it is steaming hot throughout. Day-old rice has a practical advantage as well. Its grains have dried slightly and firmed, which is why it fries so well in a hot pan as fried rice.