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Cooking Techniques

How to char vegetables under a home broiler

Set up your oven broiler for charred vegetables with the right rack position, pan, oil and timing, and learn to recognize good char before it turns bitter and burned.

A smiling man and woman remove a baking sheet of charred bell peppers from an oven in a bright kitchen.

A home broiler can char vegetables with blistered, smoky edges that come close to what a grill produces, provided you set up the rack, the pan and the vegetables correctly. Most of the heat comes from the element above the food, so position matters more than it does in baking. The aim is to brown the surface quickly while the inside softens.

Charring is different from burning. Good char is deep brown and blistered, with a sweet, smoky taste. Burned vegetables are black, bitter and dry. The steps below show how to get the first without drifting into the second.

Rack position, pan and preheating

Place the oven rack so that the vegetables sit close to the element, usually in the upper third of the oven, about 3 to 6 inches (8 to 15 cm) below it. Set thin pieces nearer the element so they char quickly, and lower the rack for thick pieces so the center can soften before the surface burns. Check the first batch after a few minutes to see how quickly it colors. Preheat the broiler for several minutes so the element is at full heat when the pan goes in. Use a rimmed baking sheet or a heavy cast-iron pan. A heavy pan holds heat well and keeps the vegetables from cooling down when they go in, while a thin, light sheet can warp and lose heat quickly.

Crowding is the most common setup error. Arrange vegetables in a single layer with a little space between pieces. Crowded vegetables release moisture, which steams them instead of letting the surface brown. If you have more vegetables than fit, cook them in batches rather than piling them up.

Many ovens offer a high and a low broil setting. High gives faster char and suits sturdy vegetables such as peppers, while low browns more slowly and suits thinner pieces that might burn before they soften. Check the oven's manual to see which settings are available.

Safety matters here because the broiler runs very hot. Keep a close eye on the oven, use oven mitts, and never line the pan so that foil touches the element, since foil can burn or catch fire at that heat. Do not leave the broiler unattended, because vegetables can move from charred to burned quickly. Expect some smoke, especially with onions and peppers, and run the exhaust fan while the broiler is on. Charred residue on the pan can be scraped while the pan is still warm, and a soak in hot soapy water loosens whatever remains.

Preparing vegetables for char

Choose vegetables that char well, such as bell peppers, eggplant, onion wedges, zucchini, green beans and scallions. Cut them into even pieces so they cook at the same rate. Thin pieces char faster, while thick ones need more time to soften in the center, so match the cut to how long you can watch the pan. Eggplant and zucchini benefit from slices about the thickness of a finger, and peppers do well in large strips or halves.

Onion wedges should keep the root end attached so the layers hold together while they char. Halved mushrooms and whole scallions also take char well when they are dried and lightly oiled, since their open, flat surfaces brown evenly.

Pat any washed vegetables dry, since surface water turns to steam before it browns. Toss them with a small amount of oil, enough to coat each piece. Oil helps the surface brown and blister, while too much oil pools in the pan and fries the vegetables. Salt them lightly at the last moment, just before they go under the heat. Salt left on for a long time pulls water to the surface, and that water slows browning.

Recognizing good char before it turns to burn

Vegetables are usually ready when the skin blisters, dark spots appear across the surface and the flesh softens when pressed gently with tongs. Turn the pieces partway through so each side faces the element. Use tongs rather than a fork, since a fork pierces the flesh and lets juices escape. Start checking every minute or two once the surface begins to color. Thin vegetables like green beans may need under five minutes, while a whole pepper takes longer and may need turning several times until the skin blackens and lifts evenly.

For thicker vegetables, slide the tip of a small knife into the thickest part. It should meet little resistance, and the flesh at the center should look soft rather than raw.

If the surface is charring faster than the center is softening, move the pan down a rung or pull the tray out for a moment to let the heat settle. To finish the softening through steam, take the pan out of the oven and cover the vegetables loosely with a lid or foil on the stovetop or counter for a minute or two. The char will lose some crispness. Once charred, let peppers and eggplant rest in a covered bowl for a few minutes, which loosens the skins for peeling. Finish with a squeeze of lemon, a drizzle of oil or a spoonful of yogurt.

Charred vegetables work as a side, folded into salads or blended into sauces, and their smoky edges pair well with sesame, tahini, yogurt or chili-lime dressings. Once you see how fast the surface changes, the broiler becomes a reliable tool for adding char to an ordinary weeknight dish. The most important habit is simply to stay close to the oven while it works.